Graham Hawkes, also known as “Hawksy”, has seen it all in his 60 odd years in the hospitality industry. His love for the industry began before he reached double digits where he cooked with his grandmothers and baked for his neighbours.
At age 13, his passion grew after he took on school holiday work experience as a cook for some local shearers and then as a cook at Aino’s Steak House in Invercargill, where he was mentored by Finnish chef Aino on various European styles of cuisine.
His love affair with the industry continued to blossom after he left school on the day of his 16th birthday. He took on many roles and responsibilities, beginning with an apprenticeship at the Grand Hotel in Invercargill and 12 month’s training in Sydney.
“The commitment to sustainability has almost come full circle since then. In those days meat was delivered whole to the kitchens and it was our job to debone them. Bones were turned into stock and sauces, nothing was wasted and everything was fresh.”
In 1975, Graham took his first chef’s role at Hotel Ashburton. Just seven years and several jobs later, he received an invitation to compete for the Culinary Olympics. He was selected and became part of a team of six who set off to Frankfurt, Germany for the international competition. Graham was the first kiwi-born and trained chef to represent New Zealand. To his surprise, his team came home with the gold medal. This was a turning point for Graham, and so he set off on bigger and better things – the manager of the Levin Hotel, to be precise.
By the 1990s he went out on his own and operated various restaurants for the following thirty years – Orchid Cafe, the Donovan Restaurant, Flannagan’s Seafood, and Paddington Arms in Invercargill – where Crafty’s Bar and Grill now sits. He and his family also operated Sopranos Pizzeria, Cactus Jacks, and took on many catering roles. Graham was also appointed Chef de Mission for the Culinary Olympics in Erfert, Germany in 2014.
Graham recently stepped down from his Southland Branch President role with Hospitality NZ, which he held for four years, however he is a Hospitality NZ stalwart, having been with us in various roles since 1987! Graham is now a hospitality mentor with Community Trust South.
Reflecting on his time in the industry, Graham says hospitality has always been seen as a low grade, low paid job, but says it’s far from the truth.
“I believe it is one of the best career paths and it’s better paid than most.”
He encourages teenagers to get experience in the industry and says it’ll give them all the essential life skills.
“I was extremely lucky; I had a hobby which I followed and made a good living from it. It never seemed like work.”
While he thinks the industry today is over-governed and over-regulated, he has high hopes for the future.
Graham believes sustainability will need to be at the forefront of every hospitality business and will be essential to their survival. Taverns and bars will need to be small, close to patrons and always have a focus on fresh food. Accommodation will need to carry out sustainable practices and be close to tourism activities and services and all will need to be competitive with their price.
As for what’s next, he thinks street food will become the next big opportunity for the industry.
In his parting comments, Graham says: “be passionate with your role in hospitality, and your role will give you the best back.”